Supernaturally transported into the future, Queen Elizabeth and her court magician stumble through a dystopian punk vision of England in Jubilee (1977), New Queer Cinema darling Derek Jarman’s early masterpiece. Meanwhile, a troupe of punks lead by nihilistic historian Amyl Nitrate, who paints a pink lightening bolt over the right side of her face, battle fascistic governmental forces and evil record companies. In their decadent teenage lair, a den of sex, violence and philosophy, she reads: “In those days, desires weren't allowed to become reality. So fantasy was substituted for them - films, books, pictures. They called it 'art'. But when your desires become reality, you don't need fantasy any longer, or art.” This anti/pseudo-situationist slogan suggests a progress narrative for any number of outlaw desires, while at the same time cynically imagining the terms of their fulfillment (A proto-argument, perhaps, against the undermining of queer cultural forms by assimilationist politics). Meanwhile, the supernaturally-imported relics of the past wander, lusciously clad, among the rocky cliffs on the outskirts of town, bemused and horrified. But distinctions between the past and the present, tradition and transgression, collapse: the pyromaniac leader of the punk girls is a ringer for the queen, evoking a strange double-ness of the past, a dark unconscious underlying historical memory.
This uncanny clash/coming-together of the past and present emerges in the ghostly chaos of AngloMania, an exhibition that transcends its foundational definitions, operating in a space akin to installation art. Mannequins, decked out in elaborate costumes representing tradition and transgression in British sartorial history, emerge from the wind tunnel of history blank-faced, their multihued hair matted and frozen like styled lumps of sticky frosting. The exhibition forgoes the typical chronological narratives, as well as clear labeling devices unfortunately, in favor of a fragmented approach. Historical costumes are juxtaposed with fashions from the late twentieth and early twenty-first centuries in nine elaborate thematic tableaux installed into the Met’s period rooms. The idea of Englishness put forward by the curators, as articulated in the accompanying brochure, is “poetic, nostalgic, satirical, and above all, theatrical.” Indeed, the vignettes are gorgeous feats of mise-en-scene, which inspire an awe of sartorial achievement while inserting a playful irony into the viewer’s potential stance. The performance of history and historical memory underlies the strength of the exhibition—and, indeed, of the garments themselves—inviting the viewer to actively negotiate their relationship to the objects, and that of the objects to each other.
Anachronism, for Jarman, is not a simple plot device or the object of an easy laugh, but the very syntax of his vision. In Jubilee the dystopian and nostalgic interpenetrate, infecting each other in an orgy of lavish fantasy. The strange disjuncture of time and space effects a queering of narrative and mis-en-scene. The past, and its tragedies and triumphs, is contaminated with the ever-presence of the present, an impulse historical in its very ahistoricity. AngloMania’s trope of lavish, yet somehow grotesque, mannequins evoke an air of anti-history as style. The exhibition, at its most compelling, tells you less about the history of British fashion, and more about the complicated stances we continuously adopt towards history- and the fabulous garments we pose in. And as it turns out, the subject harmonizes wonderfully with this postmodern perspective. Like the Hussein Chalayan’s deconstructed dresses, worn by the servants in the “Upstairs/Downstairs” scene, AngloMania reaches for the flowers in the dustbin of history, and through an endless process of “tradition and transgression” stitches together a suggestive account. In the aforementioned scene, the present cleans up after the past, but also fragments and consumes it.
This care-taking/rag-picking consciousness emerges again in a subsequent tableau, entitled “The Deathbed.” Depicting the ramifications and reverbations of Queen Victoria’s cults of death, an ostentations state bed is attended by a coterie of modern mannequins, bedecked in the designs of Alexander McQueen. These memento mori ensembles seem to relish in morbid excess, when compared to the respectfully plain cut of the costume worn by Queen Victoria also on display. “God save the queen!” cry the Sex Pistols in the last quarter of the 20th century, “we mean it, man!” (helpfully recited by Johnny Rotten in the accompanying audio guide, which is hilariously bizarre).
In the “English Garden,” eighteenth century floral dresses are paired with Philip Treacy’s orchid hats. The curators stress the contradictory philosophical belief in a natural order and the artifice involved in these “natural” performances. The artificiality undermines any claims to naturalness, as that very naturalness itself decadently overcomes the precarious machinations and treacherous structures of society. One imagines, in the translation of the botanical to the sartorial, a counter narrative of inevitable decay of the cultivated blooms, and the emergence of wildflowers and weeds in the graveyard of history. A vision of decadence that presages the anarchic vision of punk. Indeed, Sid Vicious’s cry of “There is No Future…In England’s dreaming!” echoes throughout the rooms, bouncing off the busy wallpaper, shattering the crystal vases, blowing up the layers of petticoats, and whipping through the top-heavy hairstyles. But this transgressive cry, ultimately, is realized and recognized as tradition.